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[edit] Introduction
Some of the tools you need will probably already be in your tool kit. Pincers or pliers, for example, can be used to break off small pieces of a tile which has to be shaped.
Before you start tiling you need a straight batten with masonry nails and a hammer to fix it, to help you to align the first row of tiles. Similarly, you need a plumb line and spirit level to check that the tiles are put up to a true vertical and horizontal. The tools on this page are also necessary, but it is sometimes possible to substitute one of these for something else. If you do not have a tile file, for example, keep abrasive paper handy, wrapped around a sanding block or a piece of wood, to smooth the cut edges of a tile — or you can use a carborundum stone.
[edit] Tile Cutter
Cutters are used to score a clearly defined scratch across the glaze of a tile and they vary in size and shape. A cutter may resemble a slim pencil with a needle-like cutting tip or have a hardened wheel set into a handle.
Some cutters have two jaws to hold the tile when you break it after it has been scored. Place the scored tile between the jaws and squeeze the handles together to make the break.
[edit] Tile saw
A tungsten carbide coated rod, mounted in a large metal frame, which acts as a cutting blade. It is the ideal tool for shaping curved tiles to fit around obstructions, such as water pipes, wash basins or baths.
[edit] Tile file
A flat strip of metal with an abrasive surface coated with tungsten carbide. It is used to smooth the rough edges of cut tiles. Clean it with a wire brush when the surface has become clogged.
[edit] Fine Chinagraph pencil and steel rule
For marking where tiles should be cut. Never use felt tipped pens to mark a tile. If the ink gets onto the back of the tile it may penetrate and show beneath the glazed surface.
[edit] Adhesive spreader
A simple tool made of plastic or metal with one or more notched edges. Large versions are available but small spreaders, usually supplied with tubs of adhesive, are adequate for most jobs.
The notches on the spreader ensure that the adhesive is spread over the wall at a constant depth and economises on the amount of adhesive used.
[edit] Small pointing trowel
Use the trowel to put adhesive on the wall and spread it out to an even consistency.
It is much easier to get adhesive out of the tub with a trowel, though you can do without one if you prefer. If you use a spreader to apply adhesive, the notches tend to become blocked.
[edit] Sponge or squeegee
A small piece of synthetic sponge is the best thing for pressing grout into the joins between tiles. Some tubs of grout come with a small sponge and a cleaning pad attached.
Alternatively, you can use a rubber squeegee to do the same job. You will get the grouting done more quickly but may not achieve such good results. It is difficult to press a substantial amount of grout between tiles with a squeegee and thin layers of grout may crack when dry.
[edit] Spacers
Small plastic crosses are inserted at the corners of straight-edged tiles as they are applied to the wall. Spacers ensure that there is a constant gap for grout between tiles. Matchsticks or small pieces of cardboard, provided they are equal in thickness, can be used instead of the plastic crosses on a small job or if you run out.
[edit] Tiling gauge
The gauge is a length of batten, wider than any obstruction you need to tile around. Mark the width of the tiles on the wood, plus gaps for spacers if necessary, and use the gauge to position tiles around windows or, any similar breaks in the tiling.
