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This is the most common and simplest form of widening joint. The edges may be planed square and straight or square and hollow, and glued and or clamped. Corrugated box fasteners (wiggle nails) may also be used, depending on the joint application.

Rubbed Butt Joint

Making: Lay out the boards and establish the following criteria:

• Face grain running in the same direction.

• Growth ring structure alternating or growth ring structure similar.

• Place a locating mark across the edges of the boards to be joined.

• Cutting: Secure the boards together in the vice and plane the edges using a trying plane.

• Test by placing the boards together

• Use a straight edge to ensure the face surfaces are in the same plane.

• Hold the boards to the light and check the fit of the edges.

• Assembly: Secure one member in the vice and apply adhesive to both edge surfaces.

• Attach the other member and allow to dry.

• Apply a downward pressure when edge contact is made, coupled with a short back and forward movement. This removes any air locks and excess glue.

• Flush the joint line and remove excess glue with a damp cloth.

Clamped Butt Joint

Making: Layout follows the same procedure as in the rubbed butt joint.

• Cutting: Secure the boards together in the vice with the two joining edges level and uppermost.

• Using a No. 7 plane commence in the middle and with lengthening strokes plane progressively towards each other.

• Continue until testing indicates a 0.5mm hollow in each edge.

• It is important to retain the squareness of each edge.

• Place the boards in a bar clamp and tighten.

• Check that the slight hollow in the joint line disappears with reasonable pressure.

• Firmly strike the ends of the faces to ensure no slippage occurs due to insufficient hollowing.

• Test for flatness using a straight edge.

• Assembly: Apply adhesive and re-clamp.

[edit] Dowelled Butt Joint

This is used extensively in modern furniture construction for reinforcing boards glued edge to edge. The dowels range in diameter from 4mm to 25mm and are not generally applied in timber less than 12mm in thickness. Uses include tabletops and wide flat surfaces.

• Marking: Clamp the members together with the faces outwards and square pencil lines across the edges indicating the dowel spacing. The distance between the dowels is approximately 200mm to 250mm. Starting one dowel length in from each end.

• Adjust the marking gauge to half the material thickness and gauge the dowel centre, marking from either face surface.

• Bore holes to three times the diameter of the dowel, using either a brace and bit or a power drill. Slightly countersink hole.

• Cut the dowels to length and chamfer the ends, using a dowel rounder.

• Apply adhesive to the dowels, holes, and edges.

• Assemble and clamp, using a bar clamp.

[edit] Groove and Feathered Joint

This is used where the material thickness exceeds 25mm. The joining edges are grooved to an approximate depth of 12mm and a tongue is inserted. The width of the groove is approximately one-third the material thickness. Uses include table and bench tops.

[edit] Rebate Joint

This consists of a rebate planed on the edges of each member followed by gluing and clamping. This provides a gluing area approximately one and a half time greater than a simple butt joint. Used for tabletops and shelving.

[edit] Tongue and Groove Joint

This consists of one edge grooved to a depth of 12 mm and approximately one third the thickness of the material. The other edge contains the tongue that is one third the thickness of the material and approximately 12 mm in depth. Used for panelling, shelving and most forms of joining timber where the end grain is not visible.