1. For best results work in warm weather. A good working temperature range is 18 to 25 degrees C or ( 65 to 85 degrees F ). Try to work in the shade even if it means moving the work as the sun moves. Remember the higher the temperature the faster the paint stripper evaporates and the less effective it is.

2. Remove as much hardware as possible from the piece. Use masking tape to cover any hardware that can't be removed.

3. Wear old clothes or a chemical-resistant apron, chemical-resistant gloves and safety goggles to avoid contact with the skin and eyes. Chemicals in paint stripper can be painful and irritating if splashed into the eyes or onto the skin.

4. When you're ready to use the paint stripper, STOP! Read the entire label before opening the container. Some strippers should be shaken by hand before use. Cover the container with a cloth and open the cap slowly to allow for the gradual release of pressure build up.

5. Carefully pour the paint stripper into a metal container. Replace the cap tightly each time you pour some paint stripper. Store the container in a cool place when not in use. Dip your brush into the metal can and bring out a generous helping of paint stripper.

6. Don't apply the paint stripper as you would paint. In fact, don't "brush" on the paint stripper in the usual sense; rather, "lay" it on in much the same way as you would ice a cake. Working in one direction, preferably on a flat surface, apply the paint stripper to an area of about half a square metre or two square feet at a time. If you are working on a vertical surface, such as a table leg, start at the top and work down. In about five minutes you will see the paint stripper working, the surface will begin to peel and blister.

6. Don't try to rush the paint stripper. The time required for the stripper to remove the old finish varies from product to product. The label will specify the time required, but generally it ranges from 15 to 20 minutes. As the paint stripper penetrates the old finish, it forms airtight "layers." If you try to rush the scraper, the result will be a sticky goo that is next to impossible to remove.

8. While the paint stripper is working, bide your time. Get some fresh air, away from the work site, to reduce your exposure to the paint stripper chemicals. You may even want to polish handles, rings, or other ornamental hardware while you're waiting for the stripper to do its work.

9. When the paint stripper has done its work, it's time to remove the resulting sludge. A gentle scraping with a dull putty knife will take the residue right off. Scrape away from you, and go with the grain to minimize the effect of any scratches made with the blade. On carved or grooved surfaces, a toothpick, coarse twine, old toothbrush or scrubbing brush can greatly aid the removal process. Wipe off your tools frequently on newspaper.

10. The object is to remove all the old finish from one section at a time. The first section or two will be a trial-and-error process until you determine how many coats of paint you are trying to remove. On very old furniture with many coats of paint, several soak-and-scrape operations may be required. Wait the full time for each layer you add, and be equally generous with each successive coat.

11. As you remove the bulk of the paint, wrap the residue in plenty of newspaper. Place the newspaper outside in the open air, so the paint stripper will evaporate completely before disposal.

12. All traces of the paint stripper must be removed for the new finish to adhere properly. To remove the last residue of paint stripper or old finish it will be necessary to wipe the piece with a course rag, stiff-bristle scrub brush, or steel wool pad, rubbing with the grain. This is especially true for open-grained woods like walnut, oak, or mahogany.

13. At this stage you may be left with paint, varnish or stain residues. In my experience I have found that most paint strippers will not remove these from timber, and have to be washed out using a good quality stain and grime remover, solvent or sanded off (hard work). See fact sheet on “Stain And Grime Remover”.

14. Once you have followed the instructions on “How to Use” the Stain And Grime Remover, your timber will be clean of all residues and back to raw timber.

15. Now you can apply colour rejuvenator and watch as the true colour of the timber magically appears. Allow 24 – 48hrs drying time before you start your restoration and polishing procedures. See fact sheet on “Colour Rejuvenator”.

[edit] Clean Up And Disposal

• After you finish a section, wrap the paint stripper/old finish in a thick fold of newspaper and place it outdoors, where the liquid will evaporate more quickly.

• After each work session, place all other papers, rags, applicators, and waste (old-finish residue) outdoors. Be sure to collect the entire residue, as the old paint may contain harmful materials.

• When the liquid has evaporated (it typically evaporates very fast), place all these materials into a metal container that has a secure lid.

• You can then dispose of the material according to local waste disposal requirements. Contact your local sanitation department or waste disposal contractor for more information.