[edit] The basic tool kit you will need

Although there is no need to collect a full set of bricklayer's tools just to build a simple project, a few are essential and will stand you in good stead later on.

(A) Spirit level: Used for checking the alignment of walls. It should have both horizon­tal and vertical vials, and preferably be about 1m long.

(B) Builder's Square: For checking that square corners are true right angles. A try square is not usually big enough for brick work. Make a square as shown (below). Any three lengths of wood joined in the ratio 3:4:5 must form a right angle.

(C) Spot Board (Hawk): Useful for holding mortar while working. The wooden, plastic or aluminium surface is about 300mm square with a central handle un­derneath. Make one using ply­wood or oil-tempered hardboard and broom handle. Can also be used when plastering.

(D) Club Hammer: 1.2kg hammer for cutting bricks.

(E) Bolster: for cutting bricks. The spade shaped bolster chisel with a 100mm wide blade.

(F) Mason's Pins & Twine: The flat bladed steel pins are pushed into the mortar joints at the end of each wall once the ends or corners have been built up. The line stretched between them is raised for each course as a levelling guide while laying.

(G) Bricklayer's Trowel: absolutely vital for spreading the mortar, these are available in both right hand and left hand forms. A large trowel with a blade 250-330mm long, for spreading mortar when laying bricks. Also handy is a smaller trowel called a Pointing trowel with a blade 75-200mm long, used for shaping mortar joints.

(H) Tape Measure: for checking, as the work proceeds.

2 Extra Items:

• Shovel: for handling and mixing the mortar.
• Bucket: for carrying materials.

[edit] Other things to add to the your basic tool kit

Plumb line

Useful for checking that the wall is vertical. The line can be tied round and notched into a piece of board placed on the top course, so that it hangs down the wall as a guide while you work.

Pointing Tools

For some types of pointing (see marking & laying the course) you need extra tools for shap­ing joints. A piece of Sacking can be used to smooth flush joints.

For concave joints you need either a piece of bent 15mm copper tubing, a piece of 12mm hosepipe, or something similar.

Alternatively, use a roller pointing and raking tool that has different blades for either shaping various joints or for raking out old mortar.

Profile Board

For marking the edges of strip footings and walls. Make a matching pair for one straight wall or two pairs if the wall turns a corner. For each pair use a board about 450-600mm long nailed across two 600mm battens with pointed ends for driving into the soil.

Notch the top edge of the board at suitable distances to mark each edge of the foundation strip and wall. The notches hold guidelines stretched taut between boards, one at each end of the site. Nails can be used instead of notches.

Gauge Rod

Used to check that each course of bricks is at the correct height. Make one from a length of 75mm square timber. For brick courses mark the gauge every 75mm. For screen block walling mark the gauge every 200mm for pier pilasters and every 300mm for blocks. If using other types of walling block mark it as for the course heights (including the mortar) required.

[edit] Making A Builders Square

Use three pieces of seasoned timber about 50mm wide and 19mm thick. Make sure each one is accurately marked with one of the following lengths:

450mm (A); or 600mm (B); or 750mm (C).

Line up all marks carefully before nailing lengths to each other. Use a half lap joint for A and B, then overlap C.

Check the right angle with a set square, saw off any overlap, then reinforce the corner with a piece of hardboard