The first important rule about sawing timber is that you should always saw on the waste side of the cutting line. Where accuracy is vital—as in furniture or shelf making—this means that you should always allow 5mm -10mm waste wood between one piece of timber and the next. For this type of work never be tempted to economize by simply dividing the timber into the required lengths, as inaccuracies creep in, compounding as you do repeated cuts. Your sawing position is also crucial: get this right and you are well on the way to getting a perfect cut every time. Note that you should stand slightly 'sideways on' to the timber, not straight in front.

[edit] Starting the Cut

Make sure that your timber is firmly held and will not 'jar' as you saw. If you are using a bench hook, arrange the timber so that as much of it as possible is supported on the bench. Use your free hand to press the timber against the raised lip of the bench hook as you saw.

To start the cut, line up your saw blade against the cutting line and rest it against your thumb. Keeping your thumb still and the saw at the optimum angle of 30 to 45 degrees, make a few short strokes towards you until you have grazed the wood. As you do this, look along the saw blade and keep your face side and face edge cutting lines in view. As you get into your stroke (that is, start sawing in both directions) try to saw in a 'bowing' motion to keep the cut firmly fixed on both cutting lines. Keep the saw at right angles to the timber, to ensure an accurate cut across the piece.

Well into the cut, lengthen your stroke to make as much use of the saw blade as possible. At the same time, bring down the heel of the saw to ensure that you follow the lines on the two visible surfaces. Use short, sharp strokes to stop the under surface of the wood from fraying as you finish off the cut.

[edit] Sawing with the Grain

The need to saw a piece of timber lengthways with the grain can usually be avoided, simply by buying the correct-sized timber to start with. If long-grain sawing is unavoidable, place the timber or board across two trestles at about knee height. Support the timber with your free hand and knee. Position your body so as to give free movement to your sawing arm with your body weight balanced over the cut.

Use a crosscut or panel saw for boards up to 15mm thick, and for ply-wood and hardboard. Use a rip saw on heavier timber.

If the timber begins to pinch the saw blade, causing inaccuracies, it is normally caused by the cut (or kerf) closing and can be easily fixed by opening up the cut with a thin wedge or screwdriver. Although the optimum cutting angle for long grain cuts is normally 45 degrees, cut thin sheet material and plastic-faced boards at 10-15 degrees to the work piece. If the saw wanders to one side of the line, gently bend the blade back in the opposite direction until the correct cutting line is achieved, occasionally turning the board upside down to check that your line is straight.

[edit] Making 45 degree cuts

To make 45-degree cuts quickly and accurately, carpenters use a mitre box. These are available quite cheaply from do-it-yourself shops and builders' merchants. Hold your timber firmly against the block as you cut. Rest the block itself against a bench hook or alternatively clamp it in a vice. Always use a backsaw to do the cutting and keeping the blade flatter than usual (although the cut may take longer) you will avoid accidental damage to the box itself.

[edit] Tips Of The Trade

SAWING WET TIMBER AND YOUR CROSSCUT SAW KEEPS JAMMING?

The saw will run more freely if you lubricate the whole blade by rubbing it over either with the end of a candle, or with some beeswax. DO NOT USE OIL, as this many cause problems later in gluing, staining etc.

If you have a large quantity of wet or green timber to cut, then we suggest you have your saw resharpened with the teeth set to a coarser angle (i.e. With their points splayed further apart).