[edit] Cutting

Tools for cutting copper pipe—a junior hacksaw (top right), a standard hacksaw (center) and a pipe cutter (bottom right). A half-round file removes burrs from sawn pipes

For cutting pipe, most people turn-to a hacksaw, either a standard-sized one or, for small jobs, the junior type with its shorter blade. Because of the comparative thinness of the pipe walls, a fine-toothed blade should be fitted whatever type of saw is being used, so that the maximum number of teeth are actually in contact with the metal as the cut is made. The drawback with using a hacksaw to cut pipe is that it can be difficult to ensure a perfectly square cut end. When the cut is completed a small half-round file is used to remove the burr left by the saw blade.

Far superior in terms of performance and ease of use is the pipe cutter. This has a wheeled cutter and two rotating guides between which the pipe is clamped. The tool is then rotated round the pipe and the adjustable jaws are closed gradually to cut through the pipe. The end result is a perfectly square cut with no external burr. The cutting action does, however, create a lip on the inside of the pipe, which is 'reamed' out using the pointed end of the cutter.

[edit] Bending

A pipe bending machine, with formers for 15mm and 22mm pipe, plus bending springs

For bending pipe there is again a choice between two tools. The simplest to use is the bending spring, which is slipped inside the pipe to prevent its walls from kinking while hand pressure is applied to the pipe itself. Two sizes are commonly used 15 and 22mm; 28mm pipe is too stiff to bend by hand.

That's where the pipe bending machine comes into its own. It consists of two levers which rotate formers of a size that matches the pipe diameter. These support the pipe, preventing kinking, as the bend is made. It's usual to hire this tool as and when it is needed; it's essen­tial for large scale plumbing work because of the amount of time and effort it saves. You also save money by making bends instead of using bought fittings.

[edit] Joining

A gas blowlamp, running on throw away gas cartridges; a special pipe soldering iron with shaped jaws; a hot air gun with special deflector shield

An adjustable spanner (top), a crows foot spanner (center) for fitting taps in awkward spaces, and an adjustable wrench (bottom)

When it comes to joining pipes to each other or to plumbing fittings such as taps and cisterns, the tools you need depend on whether you are using capillary or compression fittings. To make soldered fittings you can use a gas blowlamp, a hot air gun fitted with a special soldering deflector to concentrate the heat on the fitting, or a powerful soldering iron with clamp type jaws that are held against the fit­ting being soldered. The blowlamp is the traditional tool to use, but must be handled carefully if fire risks are to be avoided; the other tools run on mains electricity and are safer.

For making compression joints, you will need two spanners-one to hold the fitting and the other to tighten the nut. You may also need a special crows foot spanner and an adjustable wrench.