When you are satisfied that all the preparatory work is complete, you can apply the decorative finish, getting down to the real painting. To avoid spoiling newly painted surfaces with drips and spatters, tackle the ceiling first, then the walls and finally the woodwork. It is a good idea to paint the ceiling (which can be a messy job) before stripping any wall coverings. But this is the only exception to the rule that all preparatory work must be done before you start painting. So check that the surfaces are all stable, as smooth as possible, primed where necessary, clean and dry.

[edit] Painting a Ceiling

1. Make sure that you can safely and comfortably reach the area you are decorating. Set up a scaffold board supported by trestles or stepladders.

Your head should be about 75mm from the ceiling. If you do not like working at a height, you can use an extension handle (or broomstick) fitted to the hollow handle of a roller or pad, for most of the painting. But you will need to stand on steps or a board to cut in where the walls and ceiling meet and around the tops of doors and windows.

2. Paint the ceiling in strips starting near the window. If there is more than one window in the room, begin nearest the one where most light comes in.

Cut in the edges as you work. If possible remove light fittings mounted on the ceiling before you start painting. Otherwise carefully cut in around them with a small brush. Paint a ceiling rose after you have painted the ceiling.

Paint a ceiling in strips, parallel with the main light source, you will need to work from a scaffold board. When one strip is finished, move the scaffold board slightly and work back towards where you began.

[edit] Painting The Walls

When using a roller on walls, paint horizontal bands about 600mm wide across the wall. Work from the top to the bottom. With a brush, paint blocks about 600mm square. Start in the top right corner (or the top left one if you are left-handed). Paint the blocks from the top of the wall down and then work your way across.

You will need to stand on a stepladder to reach the top part of the wall. When you have painted blocks from the top of the wall to the bottom, move the stepladder and start to paint again at the top.

[edit] Painting Different Surfaces

Bare plaster

Dilute emulsion to half strength with water and use it as a priming and sealing coat. It is difficult to hide the colour of plaster so follow this with at least two coats of neat emulsion. Use a foam or mohair roller or a paintbrush or pad as large as you can comfortably work with. Do any slight touching up with a small paintbrush as work progresses, while the paint is still wet.

Any small blemishes and hairline cracks may show up if they are painted. To avoid this, hang a lining paper or relief wallpaper before painting.

Paper

Lining paper is the ideal surface for painting. You can put on a priming coat but it is not vital. Apply at least two coats of paint and do not expect the first to obliterate any under colour. Use whichever painting tool you prefer. Do not worry if small bubbles appear on the paper. They will disappear as the paint dries. Paint high relief and heavily embossed papers as for lining paper, but use a shaggy pile roller.

Old wallpaper can be painted but does not give ideal results. Test an area first to see that the paper does not bubble or come away from the wall. If it does, you must strip the wall, but if not, apply full strength emulsion as the first coat. The less water getting onto the wall the better. Use a roller, pad or brush.

Do not paint wallpapers which contain a metallic pattern, the pattern tends to show through the paint.

Paint vinyl wall coverings with a vinyl emulsion, which is more compatible than standard emulsions.

Painted surface

Never paint over kalsomine, it must be removed. New emulsion paint can be applied straight onto old, without a priming coat, provided the surface has been washed down. If there is a drastic colour change, two or three coats will be necessary.

Note: As a general rule, do not paint Walls or ceilings with gloss; it enhances blemishes in the surface and is prone to condensation. If you want to paint an old gloss surface, first rub it down with a flexible sanding pad or fine wet and dry abrasive paper, damped with clean water. This destroys the glaze on the paint and helps the new paint film to grip the old. Rinse well to remove any deposit. Now apply emulsion, or gloss if you prefer, with the painting tool of your choice.

Textured coatings

Use a brush or shaggy pile roller to put on the paint, emulsion is probably best. These coatings usually have a deep texture and are sometimes abrasive so they will rip foam rollers and can be difficult to coat thoroughly.

Ceiling tiles

Paint expanded polystyrene tiles with emulsion, so long as they are clean. Use a roller, and a small brush for the joins between the tiles. Never use gloss paint, it creates a fire hazard when it is put on expanded polystyrene.

If you plan to stick polystyrene tiles on the ceiling, it is much easier to paint them before you put them up, especially if they have chamfered edges.