Tools for maintaining an accurate line and level when brick­laying, include a spirit level (top), a chalk line (centre) and a bricklayer's line and pins (bottom). The spirit level should have a strong, /-shaped metal body to withstand knocks, and should be at least 600mm (2ft) long for accuracy. The chalk line should have a hook and ring at one end, and should contain at least 10m (33ft) of line. The bricklayer's line pins are made of forged steel; the line should be of rot-proof nylon.

The most invaluable is the spirit level, which is used to check that the brickwork is being built up both to a true horizontal and a true vertical. For building work a tough metal-bodied level is the best type to choose, with vials set in one face and one end. Long levels are more accurate than short ones; a level about 600mm (2ft) long will be satisfactory, since it can always be used with a longer straightedge if necessary.

A chalk line is useful for setting out building lines on concrete foundations. Some types contain a reservoir for chalk powder, and chalk the line automatically as it is drawn out.

A bricklayer's line and pegs are used to help ensure that all the bricks in each course are laid level with one another. The pegs are inserted in a mortar course at each end of the wall, and hold the string just in front of the wall face. The line is then moved up course by course.

Masonry drills (top) are used for drilling fixing holes in all types of masonry. A crowbar (top right) is useful for prising frames from masonry during replacement work. A plugging chisel (bottom right) chops out old pointing. A brick bolster and club hammer (bottom)

The bricklaying trowel (top) has a blade 250 to 350mm (10 to 12in) long, and is used for spreading mortar beds and buttering mortar onto brick ends. The smaller pointing trowel has a blade 125 to 150mm (5 to 6 in) long and is used for neatening the mortar.

For cutting bricks, a brick bolster with a 100mm (4in) wide chisel-shaped blade is used in conjunction with a club hammer. The cutting line is marked on the brick surface and is lightly cut all round the brick; then a firmer blow is delivered to cut the brick in two. It's not a good idea to use the edge of the bricklaying trowel for cutting bricks.

A plugging chisel has an angled cutting edge and is used for chopping out defective pointing ready for fresh mortar to be bedded in with the pointing trowel. It is used in conjunction with a hammer.

For drilling holes in masonry, special twist drills with hardened tungsten carbide tips are used with an electric drill. These come in a wide range of sizes, given either in mm or in gauge numbers like those used for sizing screws. Larger sizes have reduced shanks to allow them to be fitted in the average 13mm (Vs) drill chuck. Special types are made for use with hammer drills.

When it comes to actually laying the bricks, a bricklayer's trowel is used both to lay the bedding mortar and to butter mortar onto the end of each brick as it is placed. Trowels have blades measuring 250, 275 or 300mm (10, 11 or 12in) long; choose one that feels comfortable to handle without being too heavy. For pointing the joints between the bricks neatly, a smaller pointing trowel is used. This is similar in shape to the brick­laying trowel, but has a narrower blade.