From DIYinfo.org
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Raw linseed oil is mainly for outdoor use and Pale or Boiled linseed oil is mainly used indoors
Linseed Oil is “nature’s own preserver” – the finest known to mankind. Not only does Linseed Oil preserve, but it also waterproofs and helps prevent corrosion and dry rot and, in addition to these qualities, Linseed Oil makes an attractive and decorative finish.
For the handyman, we would like to introduce a few of the wonderful ideas for keeping your house in first-class condition, and by using Raw Linseed Oil or Pale Boiled Linseed Oil now, you can save yourself many dollars in repair bills later.
For many uses, Linseed Oils should be mixed with Mineral Turpentine – this makes the Linseed Oil less viscous and helps the mixture penetrate deeper into the timber. In all cases when treating floors and woodwork, remove excess oil from treated surfaces and rub to a finger-touch dry.
Linseed Oils may be used in countless money-saving ways in the home, workshop and garden – at work and play.
[edit] In The Home
Antique Furniture Refinishing:
Pale Boiled Linseed Oil is the ideal medium for refinishing those valuable antiques or for giving new unfinished furniture that “hand-rubbed” oil finish, which today is the contemporary furniture finish. It’s simple and easy.
- If the finish is badly scratched or worn it is preferable to remove the old finish with varnish remover.
- Covering with wet blotting paper and applying a hot household iron may remove dents. Sandpaper rough spots.
- Apply Pale Boiled Linseed Oil generously with a brush. Let the oil soak into the wood for 30 minutes before removing the excess with a soft cloth.
- Finally rub the surface well with a clean, soft cloth and repeat the process in 24 hours.
- Continue applications in the same fashion until the wood has acquired a beautiful deep lustre.
- Five or six applications are usually sufficient; the degree of gloss depends on the time spent on rubbing, which should be progressively increased with each coat.
To Renew Shellac Surfaces:
Is that Old French polish finish on your furniture showing signs of age and wear? Try this tip.
- Saturate a cloth with Pale Boiled Linseed Oil; next sprinkle a small amount of pumice stone powder on the cloth and then rub the surface with long strokes.
- Try to make your strokes run off the end of the surface if possible and when working on round surfaces use a continuous circular motion.
- Wipe off any excess with a clean cloth.
- If necessary, repeat, using a finer grade of pumice stone powder mixed with Pale Boiled Linseed Oil and finally again rub with a clean cloth, removing all excess oil.
- The Pale Boiled Linseed Oil lubricates the pumice, preventing scratching.
- Never use water with the pumice powder.
Untreated Furniture:
- If new timber is to be treated, it is preferable to first raise the short fibres, which are inevitably present, by dampening the surface with water and allowing to dry.
- The surface should then be sanded with a fine glass-paper and the grain filled by applying a commercial wood filler, according to the manufacturer’s directions.
- After a final fine sanding the timber is ready for the oil finish, as previously described. For a light-coloured finish use Pale Boiled Linseed Oil.
- Besides the natural wood finish given by Pale Boiled Linseed Oil, other advantages are apparent; because the oil is rubbed off between coats the surface is left non tacky therefore not dust attracting.
- When marred, the finish can be easily renewed, because the oils are actually rubbed into the timber and good protection is achieved and, most important, you’re getting a good quality finish at low cost.
Of course, there are dozens of ways to finishing furniture. It depends on the surface required. However, you’ll find that most experts use a hand-rubbed linseed oil finish as a base.
Furniture Polish:
Linseed Oils make an excellent furniture polish
1.Mix two parts of Pale Boiled Linseed Oil or Raw Linseed Oil with one part of Mineral Turpentine, or alternatively.
2.Equal parts of Raw or Pale Boiled Linseed Oil, vinegar and Mineral Turpentine.
A polish made in this way from Linseed Oil cleans as it renews the surface in one economical, timesaving operation. The need for detergents is eliminated, and, most important, this polish is wax free and will give you no trouble if you wish to refinish or paint your furniture at a later date. If your furniture is badly marked with food stains or if baby’s dirty hands have been leaving telltale marks, Polish No. 2 will possibly give greater satisfaction.
A big advantage of these polishes is that they dry by oxidation instead of evaporation. The polish is actually tied to the surface and leaves a clear, smooth, long-lasting finish resistant to water and wear.
To apply Linseed Oil Polish, moisten a soft cloth with the mixture and rub briskly. Using a clean cloth, remove excess polish and rub until the surface is finger-touch dry.
DO NOT LEAVE ANY SURPLUS OIL ON THE SURFACE. This is important.
Timber Flooring
For a most attractive finish, have your timber floors fine-sanded and then treat them with Pale Boiled Linseed Oil. For hardwood, mix two parts of Pale Boiled Linseed Oil with one part of Mineral Turpentine. For softwoods, use three parts of Pale Boiled Linseed Oil with one part of Mineral Turpentine. Brush on a coat of the required mixture and rub in well with a cloth, working in small sections at a time. After an hour, wipe off ALL SURPLUS OIL with a clean cloth. Allow 24 hours to dry thoroughly, and repeat the process three times.
Inlaid Linoleum, Removing Stains
Rub stains lightly with fine steel wool. Wash stains with mild soap and water and wipe dry. Saturate a cloth with a 2/1 Pale Boiled Linseed Oil/Mineral Turpentine mixture and rub. Wipe dry with a clean cloth and finally apply several coats of paste wax. Polish each coat to a high gloss.
Cocktail Bars
Why not treat your wooden bar-top with Pale Boiled Linseed Oil (see untreated furniture) and regularly give a fresh coat of 2/1 Pale Boiled Linseed Oil/Mineral Turpentine mixture? Use as often as necessary, but remember always to remove any excess. You’ll be well satisfied with the beautiful lustrous finish.
Sticking doors and windows
Doors and windows usually stick because moisture enters raw edges, causing warping and swelling. If you are not quite ready to get on with that re-paint job, why not give them a thin coat of 2/1 mixture of Pale Boiled Linseed Oil and Mineral Turpentine? Allow 24 to 48 hours to dry before using.
Drawers
You can help prevent wooden drawers and runners form sticking and wearing by coating the unpainted timber with Raw or Pale Boiled Linseed Oil, preferably thinned with Mineral Turpentine.
Stairs
Stair threads and risers are often scuffed and marred. They may be protected by rubbing with a light coat of two parts Pale Boiled Linseed Oil to one part Mineral Turpentine. If this treatment is repeated every few months they will retain their beauty. If you prefer a natural wood finish, remove the old surface and follow the instructions given under Timber Flooring.
Warping of timber in furniture
If your are a handyman and make your own furniture, try this tip to minimise warping. Very often the home handyman in making furniture thinks only of the outward appearance and leaves inside wooden surfaces untreated. If you give the unpainted inside of your furniture one or two light coats of 2/1 Pale Boiled Linseed Oil/Mineral Turpentine mixture, the surface will be sealed and will effectively prevent the absorption of moisture and thus minimise warping. Because Pale Boiled Linseed Oil contains special driers, the furniture will be ready to use in about 48 hours.
Wooden Venetian Blinds
The occasional use of furniture polish made form Linseed Oil (see No. 2 Furniture Polish) will clean and polish those old wooden Venetian blinds. They’ll look as they’ve never looked before.
Chrome fittings
Such as car trimmings, bumper bars, household taps, etc., should be thoroughly cleaned and rubbed with a mixture of equal parts of Pale Boiled Linseed Oil and Mineral Turpentine. Finally, polish with a clean soft cloth. This will keep the chrome clean longer and protect it from corrosion and rust.
Flywire screens
You know what a job it is to replace flywire screens. To save yourself the trouble, wipe the screen mesh down several times a year with a cloth soaked in Pale Boiled Linseed Oil and Mineral Turpentine mixed in equal parts. Remove excess oil with a clean cloth. For best results, use this preparation when the screens are new and you will be surprised how much longer they will last. Do not carry out this treatment on a dusty day.
Brickwork
Here’s a trick that works wonders for interior brickwork. First clean the bricks thoroughly and then apply a thin coat of 2/1 mixture of Pale Boiled Linseed Oil and Mineral Turpentine. This gives the brickwork an attractive easy-to-dust glossy finish.
[edit] In The Workshop
Benches and Bench Blocks
Unfinished benches, bench blocks and ‘shooting’ boards will remain smooth and last longer if you give them a natural wood finish with one or two coats of Pale Boiled or Raw Linseed Oil. Hand Tools, Ladders, etc
When you buy a new hammer, chisel, spade or any other household or garden tool, treat the wooden handle with a thin coat of Pale Boiled Linseed Oil, allowing to soak in and removing all excess with a clean cloth. Axe and pick handles, etc., should be soaked in Raw Linseed Oil when new. While you’re on the job, why not give all the steel sections of your tools a thin coating of Linseed Oil? Treat regularly, and rust won’t bother you.
Re-glazing Windows
Remove broken glass from the sash and chip off old putty. Remove holding pins and scrape the wood where the new glass is to rest. The wood should then be given a coat of Pale Boiled or Raw Linseed Oil. This keeps the oil in the putty from being absorbed, preventing it from drying out and crumbling. Spread a thin coat of putty about 1.5 mm thick in the sash to form a bed. Then press the new glass gently into position and hold in place with glazier’s points or small de-headed brads.
Putty
If putty is too hard for working, add Raw Linseed Oil and knead until soft and pliable.
Using Nails and Screws
Here’s a tip for driving nails the easy way. Dip them in Raw Linseed Oil! Surprisingly enough, this treatment also keeps nails from bending. Also helps to prevent wood rot and corrosion of the nails. You will find it easier to drive screws into wood if you treat them in the same manner.
Wooden Ladders
Give your ladders or wooden strips a coating of Raw Linseed Oil and this will keep them in first-class condition. Repeat annually. This will maintain flexibility and, at the same time, will not hide any defects. This is the best safety precaution you can take.
Gluing
To prevent glue from adhering to a painted or varnished surface first apply a thin coat of Raw Linseed Oil, which may be easily removed when the glue has set.
Paint brushes
Soak your new brush in Raw Linseed Oil for 24 hours before using. This is recommended by leading brush manufacturers and will improve the efficiency of your brush, holding the paint better and giving smoother application. After using, clean the brush and suspend in Raw Linseed Oil until again needed. Drill a hole in the handle of the brush and insert a length of wire. Rest this wire on the sides of your container of Linseed Oil and the brush will be suspended and the bristles kept straight.
[edit] In The Garden Pruning Shrubs and Trees
Any gardener will know that the sap runs from many trees and shrubs when they are pruned. Try this effective treatment when next you’re pruning. Warm two parts Lanolin with one part of Raw Linseed Oil and mix well. This helps to seal the cut. The same preparation may be used on damaged or broken limbs.
Fences
Choose a fine day with no dust about and give your paling or picket fence a coat of Raw or Pale Boiled Linseed Oil. Before applying, make sure the fence is dry. Particular attention should be paid to coating the ends. The result will be an attractive finish and the Linseed Oil film will preserve the timber and prevent dry rot. If you do this annually your fence should last indefinitely.
Garbage Cans
Nothing will keep a garbage can from rusting, but a coat of Pale Boiled Linseed Oil will work wonders. It also prevents food from sticking to the sides. Clean the can thoroughly before applying.
Stored Timber
Coat the open grained ends of stored timber with Linseed Oil to prevent moisture absorption.
Fowl Houses
Treat the wooden walls, floors and perches of your fowl houses by giving one or two coats of Raw Linseed Oil. Clean thoroughly before applying and let it soak deep into the grain. This will reduce decay from litter moisture.
Preserving Galvanised Roofs
To preserve a galvanised iron roof, first scrub well with a wire brush to remove old paint and rust. Then apply the following mixture: 0.5 L of Pale Boiled Linseed Oil with 1 Kg of cement. This mixture must be kept well stirred while applying. Use a coarse brush.
Many Farm Uses
The uses are many and varied. For protection and preservation use Linseed Oils on the following: Combine platforms, cultivation shovels, discs, posts, pig troughs, truck tables, wooden silos, to mention a few.
[edit] For The Sportsman
Skis (Snow and Water)
Use Raw or Pale Boiled Linseed Oils to make your skis stay supple and flexible. First remove wax from the running surface, using Mineral Turpentine. Apply a mixture of two parts Pale Boiled Linseed Oil to one part Mineral Turpentine and let it soak in. Apply a second coat, wiping off oil after each coat. Allow 48 hours to dry before re-waxing. During the season an occasional wipe of the varnished surface with the oil mixture will effectively seal scratches. You will be well satisfied with this treatment.
Cricket Bats, Baseball Bats, Hockey Sticks, Archery Equipment, Croquet Mallets
To give added “life” to this sporting equipment rub in three or four coats of Raw Linseed Oil, allowing 48 hours between applications. Repeat with a single application each season. It is important to keep the linseed oil away from the “spring” of cricket bats.
Wooden Boats and Canoes
Use a cloth to apply Pale Boiled Linseed Oil to worn spots. The oil penetrates deep into the wood and prevents rot. Remove the excess, allow to dry before using. Oars and paddles last longer and have more spring when wiped occasionally with Pale Boiled Linseed Oil.
Fishing Rods and Gun Stocks, etc
Preserve and beautify the finish of your bamboo, wood or steel fishing rod by giving the Pale Boiled Linseed Oil treatment. It will protect the metal work on your expensive casting reel, too; for ordinary care, many riflemen apply a small amount to the stock after the day’s shoot, wiping-off excess to a finger-touch dry.
