How To Repair Wooden Floors,Step By Step

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1 To remove a damaged section, first locate a joist position. Mark a cutting line either over the middle of the joist or to one side of it.
1 To remove a damaged section, first locate a joist position. Mark a cutting line either over the middle of the joist or to one side of it.
2 Using a piece of wood as a guide, scratch and then tease a cut with the first few teeth, if you are using a tenon saw to cut on the joist
2 Using a piece of wood as a guide, scratch and then tease a cut with the first few teeth, if you are using a tenon saw to cut on the joist
3 If you are using a pad saw or power jig saw to make the cut beside a joist, drill a small hole the width of the blade.
3 If you are using a pad saw or power jig saw to make the cut beside a joist, drill a small hole the width of the blade.
4 Use a pad saw or jig saw to cut right across the board, or if you prefer, just to give you a slot in which to start off your handsaw.
4 Use a pad saw or jig saw to cut right across the board, or if you prefer, just to give you a slot in which to start off your handsaw.
5 A pad saw can be used to sever the tongue of a tongued and grooved board if other forms of sawing are impracticable.
5 A pad saw can be used to sever the tongue of a tongued and grooved board if other forms of sawing are impracticable.
6 Remove nails from the joist using a claw hammer. Protect the board along side with an off cut. Do not hammer old nails into the joists.
6 Remove nails from the joist using a claw hammer. Protect the board along side with an off cut. Do not hammer old nails into the joists.
7 When making an extra support, start by cutting a generous length of stout timber. The extra width ensures that the board is firmly fixed.
7 When making an extra support, start by cutting a generous length of stout timber. The extra width ensures that the board is firmly fixed.
8 Mark the floor board gap on the upper surface of the bearer. As you can see the bearer straddles the gap and acts just like the joist.
8 Mark the floor board gap on the upper surface of the bearer. As you can see the bearer straddles the gap and acts just like the joist.
9 Partly face nail the support, to the point when the nails are just about to break through on the other side of the timber.
9 Partly face nail the support, to the point when the nails are just about to break through on the other side of the timber.
10 Complete the nailing while pushing the bearer against the joist and upwards against the fixed boards on both sides. Note; that hardwood joists may need pilot holes drilled first.
10 Complete the nailing while pushing the bearer against the joist and upwards against the fixed boards on both sides. Note; that hardwood joists may need pilot holes drilled first.
11 If fitting a thicker board than the rest, a cut out has to be made where the board crosses a joist. First mark the joist’s position.
11 If fitting a thicker board than the rest, a cut out has to be made where the board crosses a joist. First mark the joist’s position.
12 Transfer the mark from the underside of the replacement floor board to its edges. Repeat this step at every joist position.
12 Transfer the mark from the underside of the replacement floor board to its edges. Repeat this step at every joist position.
13 Carefully cut the board in order not to exceed the required rebate depth, this can be gauged by sight or direct measurement.
13 Carefully cut the board in order not to exceed the required rebate depth, this can be gauged by sight or direct measurement.
14 Use a chisel to remove wood between the cutting lines. The chisel face should be down. Work in stages to end with a level cut.
14 Use a chisel to remove wood between the cutting lines. The chisel face should be down. Work in stages to end with a level cut.
15 Check that the rebate fits snugly and is of the required depth. Continue chiselling if the board is proud of those alongside.
15 Check that the rebate fits snugly and is of the required depth. Continue chiselling if the board is proud of those alongside.
16 If the replacement board is too thin, use sheet wood (e.g ply or masonite) to make up the difference. Do not use newspaper folds for this job.
16 If the replacement board is too thin, use sheet wood (e.g ply or masonite) to make up the difference. Do not use newspaper folds for this job.
17 When replacing tongued boards the last two will need force before slipping into fit, use a mallet and protective wood off cut.
17 When replacing tongued boards the last two will need force before slipping into fit, use a mallet and protective wood off cut.
18 Nailing boards into place a pencil line ensures accuracy. A floor cramp (worth hiring for big jobs) keeps the boards tightly packed.
18 Nailing boards into place a pencil line ensures accuracy. A floor cramp (worth hiring for big jobs) keeps the boards tightly packed.
19 If you decide to use nails for fixing a floor board in place, hammer in the heads using a nail punch. Use a coloured filler to conceal the hole.
19 If you decide to use nails for fixing a floor board in place, hammer in the heads using a nail punch. Use a coloured filler to conceal the hole.
20 If you choose to screw down a board, drill a hole to accept the screw only. This minimizes the effort needed in fixing boards.
20 If you choose to screw down a board, drill a hole to accept the screw only. This minimizes the effort needed in fixing boards.
21 Use a countersink bit to drill a recess for the screw head and if necessary fill the hole once the board has been screwed to the joist.
21 Use a countersink bit to drill a recess for the screw head and if necessary fill the hole once the board has been screwed to the joist.
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