Paring

The paring chisel with its thin bevelled edge blade is ideal for light shaping work. Because of its light construction it is unsuitable for use with a mallet.

Firmer

Most firmer chisels are supplied with bevelled edges. As the name suggest, it is stronger than the paring chisel making it suitable for most general work. The handle is often fitted with a metal ferrule on both ends, which prevents splitting of the handle when used with a mallet.

Registered Firmer

For heavier work, such as mortising, where the use of a mallet is necessary. These have a thicker blade and an iron ferrule at each end of the handle. A leather washer is provided between the shoulder of the blade and the handle to act as a shock absorber when the chisel is being used with a mallet.

Socket Mortise

For extra heavy work, eg, heavy mortising, the socket firmer sometimes called a mortise chisel, is used. The blade being thicker and stronger than other chisels. If used in hardwoods the cutting edge is stronger when sharpened at about 35 degrees.

Butt Chisel

A “butt chisel” is similar in construction to a firmer chisel but much shorter in length making it suitable for use in confined spaces. These are available with square or bevelled edges. A wide bevelled edge butt chisel is ideal for hinge checkouts.

[edit] Chisel Parts

All chisels consist of two main parts:-

• The handle made of a tough timber (beech or ash) or plastic.
• The blade made of tool steel, being fixed to the handle either by a tang or a socket
• Chisels with wooden handles are usually provided with brass or iron ferrules, to prevent the handle from splitting.

[edit] Chisel Cutting Edge Angles

SORRY - Diagram is coming shortly

[edit] Care and Maintenance

Storage

Cutting edges should be protected from damage by a suitable storage method. They may be stored in racks, trays or secured with spring clips. Another method is to house each chisel separately in a leather or canvas roll. These days, most chisels purchased from new come with a small plastic sleeve fitted over the cutting edge.

Displayed is an Easy Home Made Storage Rack.

Care in Use

• It is important to realize that grinding and sharpening angles should vary according to their use. Too low an angle will result in broken or chipped edges. Too steep an angle on a chisel for paring will result in inefficiency, poor quality work, and more pressure being needed to operate the chisel resulting in possible danger to the user and job.
• Avoid dropping chisels or allowing glue to dry on them.
• Don’t leave tools scattered over the bench as damage to both tools and injury to the user can result.
• KEEP YOUR CHISELS SHARP! As with all cutting tools, they operate much more efficiently when kept SHARP.
• Use only a mallet to hit wooden handled chisels.
• Keep moisture from blades to prevent rust.
• Use correct chisel for the correct job.

[edit] Gouges

Similar in construction to chisels but have blades, which are curved so that curved cuts can be made. Sizes 3 – 38mm blade width with various curve shapes, i.e.: ranging from flat to sharp curves.

Scribing or Paring Gouge

These are ground and sharpened on the concave inside of the curve. Used by hand to pare and clean-up shapes.

Firmer Gouge

These are ground and sharpened on the convex or outside of the curve. Used with a mallet for removing waste on curved work.
Grinding

The grinding operation applicable to both the scribing gauge (15 degrees) and firmer gauge (20 degrees) are indicated below.

Sharpening

The general stages of chisel sharpening are applied to gouges but, a slipstone is required in addition to the oilstone. And an angle 5 degrees greater than the grinding angle is ideal.

[edit] Different Types

There Are Many Different Types Of Chisels That Are Used In Different Hobbies And Trades. Here Are Just A Few:

Saddlers Chisel Set

Stone carvers Chisel Set

Wood turners Chisel Set